Sang Nyuk Mee at Kedai Kopi Melanian Lintas

Sang Nyuk Mee at Kedai Kopi Melanian Lintas

NON-HALAL
Over the past few years, Sang Nyuk Mein (fresh sliced pork) coffee shops have begun to sprout up in KK because of its popularity. One shop that GOURMET SAILOR has been harping about on Facebook is Melanian Coffee Shop at Gaya Street. As I was in the Lintas area by chance, I decided to try out their Lintas branch.

Since I only had 10 minutes left before my next appointment, I quickly ordered a bowl of mixed pork soup with konlau ho fun (flat rice noodles) that has been tossed with a dark soy sauce gravy. Within 60 seconds, the noodles and the tofu arrived. The mixed pork soup came before the 90 second mark. How efficient! Granted the shop was not particularly busy yet, but that’s still fast by any standard!

The Mixed Pork Soup

The first taste of the soup inspired an extended slow-mo nod, followed by a ripple of headbops from side-to-side. The broth had the umami factor from all the boiled meaty bits and it is more flavorful (also saltier than Jia Siang and Damai Sang Nyuk Mee). I imagine this will please those who prefer a tastier, and more savory experience.

They give a good heaping tablespoon of fried garlic-lard on top of the soup mixture, which makes the soup as addictive as bonito-flavored soup. I’d even venture to say that the pork broth is so far the best I’ve tasted in town.

PORK MEATBALLS, LIVER, INTESTINES & OTHER OFFALS – While the pork meatballs were tender to the bite, their Sang Nyuk (sliced pork) were not as tender as Jia Siang’s. Saying that, it’s sliced bigger but chewier for sure. The intestines were soft, tasty and not bitter (a very good thing). The liver was “acceptable,” but not as tender as the ones you get at the Bah Kut Teh place at Gaya Street. This is possibly due to over-boiling? You’re supposed to blanch liver in hot water (not boil) as to not let the fibers contract too much.

WONTONS – They used lean pork mince in their wontons, which is rougher and tougher than most wontons in the market. It also tasted very simple, like it’s merely been mixed with salt, pepper and very little Chinese wine. I would have been more impressed if they had added some garlic, crustacean-flavoring and Chinese parsley to the wonton mix.

The Konlau Ho Fun

Since ho fun noodles are flat, slippery and tasteless, they are the best type of noodle to carry the taste of the gravy. The flat side of the noodle wipes the sauce onto your tongue receptors, coating the taste all over the inside of your mouth. I loved how the ratio of flavored-dark soy sauce and pork lard were very well-balanced. I could taste the savory and the fragrant, and it was just right!

It had too many ingredients and tasted too good to be a mere RM5.50, but I hope they don’t hike their prices so that I can harp about how incredulously reasonable it is!

Hakka Tofu

As a Hakka moi, I eat a lot of Nyong Tiu Foo so naturally I’ll be a bit more critical of it.


I thought that the gravy was conveniently too simple and lacking in flavor. The meat filling tasted too simple, much like the filling in the wontons. It could use some extra fat, tenderizer and prawn-flavoring.

I can see the appeal though, for those who prefer a lower-fat alternative to the usually fat-laden meat fillings, and for those who like bite into fibrous meat. But if I were to be completely objective about the taste, the meat filling and sauce could definitely be improved on. Saying that, it’s not terrible. The tofu texture was silkier than most coffee shops, but I’m being especially critical because I liked their soup a lot. I believe they should raise the standards of their side dishes to be an outstanding coffee shop!

Summary

Go to Melanian if you want to taste the best fresh pork broth in town. Be mindful that the meat fillings are leaner and less tender than other shops. Don’t have high expectations of the tofu, but be glad that the noodle and mixed pork soup is only going to cost RM 5.50 (less than US $2).

WHERE TO GO

Kedai Kopi Melanian
Lot 7-0, Ground Floor, Lorong Lintas Plaza1, Jalan Lintas
88300,Kota Kinabalu
Sabah, Malaysia.
View Lintas Eateries in a larger map

Open for breakfast and lunch

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